A passion for lasers, Jolka Wiens’ graduate collection
In Star Wars, lasers were the most elegant weapon. In today’s fashion, they are a tool that is developing to guarantee rapid execution and high resolution. Jolka Wiens (born in 1985), a fashion designer from Berlin with a diploma from Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, experimented with lasers to create her graduate collection.
At the base of this work is a specific figurative research concerned with facial expression. Jolka in fact studied the psychological aspects of a face and, "what is so fascinating", the designer says, "is that the face has a basic common appearance, that changes at the smallest twitch".
Jolka thus applied this study to the collection with an abstract approach, concentrating not so much on mimicry, as much as on the muscular and epidermic systems. She drew the faces and extrapolated graphics at the computer, reproduced with Illustrator, to be used as patterns for laser-cutting flat, T-shaped neoprene fabric.
"Laser-cutting techniques are new to me", Jolka confesses. "I had always designed on the body using moulage", which allows the creation of garments on a mannequin using pins, folds and draping. “With lasers I can complete a cut in 20 minutes to an hour”. A fast but intense technique with an artisanal component: "Sometimes you have to intervene to get it perfect down to the millimeter".
Photos via jolkawiens.tumblr.com
a chat with Jordy van den Nieuwendijk