Hunting for animal skins, with Ryan Mercer
In the fashion world they call it color blocking, a technique that juxtaposes contrasting fabrics of bright colors. Sometimes the final result is flattened into a two-dimensional graphic effect, but this isn’t the case of the S/S 2013 collection of fashion designer Ryan Mercer.
Presented as the graduate project at Royal College of Art in London (MA, Womenswear), the first effort by the Canadian designer manages to avoid the dangers of leveling thanks to the use of animal skin (especially lamb and treated python).
Giving the designer his cue were the graphic compositions in the book Then Again by Shirana Shahbazi. Images that Ryan combined with an imagery made of organic, carnal textures and prints created by using also non-traditional methods.
Thanks to a language based on collage, the collection manages to blend vivacious color blocking with three dimensional marquetry, the textures of animal skin and the complexity of the prints.
To give structure and a perimeter to the garments, Ryan resorts to decorative elements that reveal his past as an illustrator. Leather straps, buttonholes and visible stitching soften the rigor of the graphic lines created in the intersection of colors.
Photos via rca.ac.uk
Interview with Antonio Trotto from Valentino